Normalize Care for Down There!
(A History of Body Hair Rituals)
Clinical Psychotherapist, EdM, LMSW
Jenny Mahlum is a best-selling author and acclaimed therapist specializing in sex therapy, couples counseling, and intimacy. Her expertise has been featured in The New York Times, Cosmopolitan, Newsweek, and Everyday Health. An NYU-trained therapist with additional degrees in psychology and human development from Harvard and Northwestern, Jenny merges a deep understanding of human behavior with clinical excellence. We partnered with Jenny as part of Kiehl's Pubic Library to delve into uncensored conversations about all things personal and intimate—explore her expert insights below.
Throughout history, hair has served as an expressive canvas for humanity, reflecting culture, hygiene, beauty, tradition, rebellion, and religion. These varied expressions often come with pressures and expectations, as societal norms and trends frequently dictate how people "should" style and care for their hair. Yet, hair remains a powerful symbol of identity and values, constantly evolving.
THE HISTORY OF HAIR REMOVAL
AROUND THE GLOBE
One of the oldest methods of hair removal, sugaring, was developed in Ancient Egypt. This involved applying a sticky, wax-like substance made from honey and sap to the hair and letting it dry. Once it hardened, it was pulled off, removing the hair. Many Egyptian women were particularly fond of sugaring to remove body and pubic hair, considering it a sign of respect toward the gods. However, tomb reliefs often show triangles of pubic hair on both men and women, suggesting it wasn't universally practiced.
In Rome, hair removal was considered paramount to cleanliness. Men shaved their beards often, especially those of high social standing, and women often removed all of their body hair through a combination of stone razors, pumice stones and depilatory creams.
In India, the practice of threading was developed. Thin strings of cotton thread were placed closely together to form two taught lines, catching and plucking hair between them. This practice is still very popular today for eyebrow shaping and facial hair removal.
During the late Middle Ages in Europe, hair removal was a big deal, especially for women. Aristocratic ladies would remove pubic and body hair to look clean and classy, impress their spouses, and keep lice at bay. Medical and beauty texts from the late 12th century describe all sorts of hair removal and bleaching practices. This led to the rise of professional hair removers who would visit homes, bathhouses, and courts. Nude paintings from that era often show that being hairless was considered the ultimate “feminine ideal.”
HAIR REMOVAL PRACTICES AND
HOW THEY IMPACT PEOPLE TODAY
Over the years, an obsession with personal appearance has driven global hair removal practices, which has led to many identity and gender norms in American culture. In early 1900s America, shaving wasn't just about maintenance; it was a statement of class and status. A clean-shaven face, for example, symbolized hygiene and good health and it was considered the epitome of eliteness. Companies quickly caught on and began marketing shaving products as essentials for enhanced attractiveness and sophistication. Ads started to celebrate hairlessness as a mark of refinement.
As the century progressed, hair removal became even more popular in the United States. Sleeveless dresses revealing more skin led more American women to shave their armpits. By the 1930s and 40s, shorter hemlines made leg hair removal a new beauty standard. The trend intensified during the wartime nylon shortage when stockings were hard to come by, and women sought alternative ways to achieve the smooth, bare look nylons provided. This era marked a pivotal shift in hair care habits. With stockings scarce, more and more women turned to shaving as a way to maintain a sleek and smooth appearance.
The 1960s and '70s ushered in a rebellion against rigid hair care standards. Feminists and naturalists embraced their natural body hair, with men and women letting it grow as part of the counterculture movement that celebrated acceptance and body naturalism over a smooth, shaven look.
In 1987, seven Brazilian sisters opened a salon in New York City that introduced and popularized the now-famous Brazilian wax, which removes all hair from the genital area. This trend swiftly caught on, reinforcing the ideal of hairless, smooth skin and fueling the growth of the hair removal industry. Over the past four decades, the pursuit of hair-free skin has spurred advancements in removal techniques, including electrolysis, pulsed light, and laser treatments.
Despite these advancements, the trusty non-electrical razor remains the primary tool for pubic hair maintenance across Europe and many Western countries. While some opt for waxing, sugaring, hair removal creams, or newer methods, the majority still prefer razors.
The following decades brought new shifts. With the rise of waxing, explicit pop culture, and the influence of pornography, body hair on women gradually became seen as "unnatural." However, in recent years, young women have been reclaiming body hair as “natural.” Hair removal practices span cultures worldwide, each with its unique traditions. Unlike Western norms influenced heavily by advertisements, pornography, and media, many cultures root their hair removal customs in tradition, religion, and hygiene.
Hair removal practices differ widely around the globe, but the Tripartite Influence Model (a model which points to three main influences—media, family, and peers) shapes a person’s body image standards and practices. Media bombards people with idealized beauty images, creating endless opportunities to compare themselves and often feel dissatisfied as a result. This relentless stream of "perfect" can really disrupt how individuals see themselves.
From a young age, family sets the tone for what's "normal," instilling values related to appearance and hair maintenance. These beliefs are often rooted in cultural norms. In collectivistic cultures, the concept of an autonomous self is less emphasized; an individual's appearance can reflect their family and community, driving them to conform to accepted standards. Conversely, in individualistic cultures, people might alter their appearance to stand out and garner admiration.
SHIFTING STANDARDS & FINDING
YOUR OWN
Noticeably, these pressures are starting to diminish, thanks in large part to queer activists who are loudly critiquing the “shoulds'' that reinforce traditional gender norms. For many in the queer community, hair care is more than just a routine—it's a form of self-expression, self-care, and a way to bond. By challenging stereotypes and conventional views on gender and sexuality and championing a more inclusive and diverse take on beauty, queer culture is empowering individuals to make choices based on self-expression and self-acceptance.
Queer activists have been vocal in critiquing beauty standards that reinforce traditional gender norms, encouraging the rejection of oppressive beauty ideals that are rooted in heteronormative ideals. By actively challenging stereotypes and traditional views on gender and sexuality and promoting a more inclusive and diverse understanding of beauty, queer culture has empowered more individuals to make choices about their bodies based on self-expression and self-acceptance rather than societal expectations.
Whether you choose to remove body hair, leave it au naturel, or trim it to somewhere in between, Kiehl’s is here to support and celebrate your choice. Carrying on a tradition of body care from head-to-toe, Kiehl’s is excited to introduce Kiehl’s Personals—a line dedicated to helping you take intimate care to the next level. Discover more about their two new formulas, from intimate drops formulated to help you remove hair down there to a gentle cream-to-powder deodorant that provides all-day odor control with minimal friction.
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